The Kotel

About two weeks ago I returned from staffing the Jewish Federation of Greater Philadelphia rabbis’ mission to Israel, which was sponsored by the World Zionist Organization.  This trip allowed our rabbis to deepen our understanding of the complex issues Israel faces in the arenas of division of church and state, democracy and a Jewish state, peace and security, as well as an opportunity to visit our partnership region of Netivot S’dot Negev.  While I would love to report on the entire mission, my most meaningful experience was at the Kotel.
During rabbinical school while I was studying  in Israel from 1997-1999, I learned a lot about the debate over egalitarian prayer gatherings at the Kotel first hand.  On Shavuot I gathered with a large group of men and women in the plaza section of the Kotel, far back from the actual wall.  While we davened (prayed) the morning service, police officers barricaded the area around where we stood to hold back the hundreds of ultra-Orthodox protesters who had gathered to oppose our prayer service.  Throngs of them were shouting, throwing garbage our way, and attempting to breach the barricade.  It goes without saying it was difficult to pray in that environment.
At the end of my two years of study in Israel, I got married in the Old City of Jerusalem at a synagogue in the Jewish quarter.  As I sat in the bride’s chair in the outdoor courtyard during the kabbalat panim (pre-ceremony reception) while my groom was in his tisch, we held an egalitarian mincha service (I had previously davened mincha at the Kotel privately).  While I watched the men and women from the Conservative Yeshiva (where my groom and I met) daven the mincha service, children from the neighborhood threw empty plastic soda bottles at the group and yelled “Reformim” (Reform Jews) at them.  One of our guests escorted one of the child protesters home and the parent praised the child.  Not the most pleasant memory of my wedding day.
Compare this to my recent experience at the new Ezrat Yisrael, an egalitarian section of the Kotel near Robinson’s Arch.  The area is out of sight of the Kotel plaza and is actually set back somewhat and elevated from the actual wall.  There are Torah reading tables available, sun umbrellas, and raised blocks for seating.  There is also a small “deck” available to approach the wall directly, and an elevator that reaches that section.  While this deck can hold only maybe 20-30 people, it is a game-changing improvement over having no direct access to the Kotel, to touch the stones, or to place a note inside.  The Kotel has always been my favorite place on earth.  For the first time in my life I was able to daven with tallit and tefillin, out of sight of those who would consider my religious act a political one, and in an areal of quiet and calm.  Although the area is not perfect, I encourage anyone who visits Israel to seek out the Ezrat Yisrael as it is not obvious to newcomers.  I would be curious to hear your responses to this hotly contested solution to the Kotel dilemma.  

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